El Teatro Colon

I was wandering through the entrance of El Teatro Colón. when I heard people calling out. It’s a noisy city, so of course I ignored it. Until I more clearly heard “Rick, Rick.” Not what I was expecting in BsAs. Jamie and John from Marin, whom I sat next to on the flight from San Francisco, convinced me to take a tour of El Teatro Colón, a major landmark and a source of pride for Argentinos.

This recently refurbished opera house, with French, Italian and Baroque influences has nearly 2,500 seats, standing room for 500, and is bigger than the Royal Opera House in Covent Garden, London. Impressively, it is ranked as one of the top 5 opera houses in the world. During the tour it was revealed that the path to completion included elements of a good opera – arguments over location, financial difficulties, and the contributions of three architects to complete this world-class venue. The fist died at age 44 (natural causes as I understood it.) The second also died at age 44 when he was shot by his wife’s lover. It was not until a Belgian architect who was older than 44 took charge that the curse was vanquished. Despite the drama, El Teatro Colón opened on May 25^th 1908 on the anniversary of the declaration of independence from Spain.

During the tour, someone asked “who was Colon?” I had no idea Colon was a person, but it makes sense that this amazing opera house would be named after a person rather than a section of the large intestine. Colon was none other than Cristóbal Colón, an explorer, colonizer and navigator, born in the republic of Genoa (now Italy) who set sail for the Americas with the help of the Spanish monarch. Yes, I’m beginning to discover a thread weaving its way through my trip to Argentina. Being one-fourth Italian (Siciliano), I suppose it makes me feel a connection with the Italians. Errr, make that Argentinos.

War. What the hell’s it good for? Well, apparently the Great War – World War I, was good for opera and music in BsAs. Artists looking for work fled to Argentina. And in case you’re wondering about those 500 standing places in the opera house – they were for the masses, the poor people, including the Italian artisans who helped build the opera house. These Italians, who were familiar with opera from their homeland were also needed to fill the seats – or at least stand on the seventh floor balcony which is said to have amazing acoustics. And for the inauguration of El Teatro Colón? None other that Aida by Giuseppe Verdi. Bravo.