Seven Things to Know about Argentina

1. Helado + pan + pasta = panca. Some Argentine helado rivals Italian gelato, and ice cream shops are everywhere. Pan (bread) is regularly served with meals, and the bakeries/pastry shops are quite good. And, as we know, there is no shortage of things Italian in Argentina which explains the prevalence of pasta. What does it all add up to? Panca. (At least that’s how I think it’s spelled.) It’s from the word “pan” and it means fat, pudgy, doughy, pleasantly plump. Yes, it’s safe to assume that the leading causes of big butts in Argentina are: Ice cream, bread and pasta, Yum!

2. Big butts = big toilet seats. The toilet in my apartment in BsAs was designed for something a little wider than I have to offer. Maybe it’s time to visit more of those ice cream shops, bakeries and Italian restaurants.

 3. Public primping is encouraged. The mirrors in men’s restrooms are big. This is useful because men spend a lot of time fixing their hair. And I’m willing to bet they spend more money on hair products than women. Both men and women can be found checking themselves out in large reflective windows while reinforcing the reputation Argentineans have for being good-looking and very appearance-conscious.

4. Argentina is a Catholic country with easy access to condoms. If you need a condom, stop in at the men’s room in a mall or in a hotel. Besides, vending machines are much more convenient than standing in line at the pharmacy. Does this mean that all of the primping and hair-product pays off?

5. Bring your own change.  Automated teller machines seem to only dispense large bills, yet businesses always ask if you have something smaller. It’s not uncommon to see signs that say “No 50s or 100s accepted.” To be clear, 50 Argentine pesos is about $12US. And, Argentina is no longer cheap – it’s just that no one has change. It’s the responsibility of the customer to arrive with the proper bills and change. Once when I was at a supermarket, the cashier didn’t have proper change, so she rounded-up and gave me back a few extra centavos. But best of all was when I was getting a bite to eat at the end of my day at Iguazú Falls. The cashier did not have enough coins, so she gave me some gum to make up the difference. I wonder if the vending machines at the mall take gum?

6. Buenos Aires is sometimes called the Paris of South America. Typically it’s a reference to the architecture, but I can’t help wondering if maybe it’s a reference to their love for dogs – and what they leave behind.

Actually, I think Parisians are now much better at poop-scooping. Okay, there may even be a couple horses contributing to the problem.

7.  It’s chau, not adios. I haven’t heard anyone say “adios” in Argentina. I suppose if they did, it would be “a-Dee-oth” which I might not even recognize.

Ciao for now. Or rather “chau por el momento.”

Rules of the Road

In Argentina, there are two rules of the road. Number one, if you are a driver, don't hit anyone. Number two, if you're a pedestrian, don't get hit.

When it comes to pedestrians and cars, the right of way belongs to the one who doesn't lose their nerves. It's really just a game of chicken. If you hesitate, then the other person has the right of way.

Going for it.

Look closely. In the center, not to the left or right.

There's plenty of room for cars and pedestrians in BsAs.

Two-or three feet is considered a safe distance between car and pedestrian, and when possible cars should swing wide into the intersection and cut in front of any pedestrians who dare to step off the sidewalk and into the street.

 

Because of previous blog postings, I feel obliged to state the obvious - Argentinos drive like Italians.

Walk around at night and you'll see most taxis have only their parking lights on. Headlights are not required and are just a waste of electricity in big city Buenos Aires. Hop in one of those taxis and you will discover the seat belts are neatly tucked away presumably to protect the plastic-covered seats. I was in one taxi where the seat belt worked, so apparently there is no law against functional seat belts.

I imagine sometimes pedestrians fight back. And the battle-charred cars are left on the street to remind drivers of the consequences of failing to master the dance between car and pedestrian. In the land of the Tango, timing is everything.

When pedestrians revolt?

However, there is no time to dance on Avenida 9 de Julio, the widest road in the world with up to sixteen lanes of traffic. In the center is el Obelisco which towers 67 meters (220 feet) above la Plaza de la Republica. For a close up of the obelisk – run, don't walk, across La Avenida. And remember, sometimes an Obelisco is just an Obelisco no matter what else it may appear to be.

 

 

Wearing a helmet while on a motorcycle or scooter also appears to be optional – even if you have one. It is Argentina after all, and there is no sense burdening people with anything that might mess up their hair.

Yes officer, I have a helmet right here.

My favorite motorcycle scene was of a family of four. The five year old son was up front, dad was driving, and daughter was squeezed behind papa y mama who was holding on to the back to keep the family together. Unfortunately they were moving too fast and I was not able to whip out my camera to capture a photo.

If you visit Argentina, regardless of your sense of rhythm or your musical preferences, there is one guarantee - you will learn the Traffic Tango.

You Say You Want a Revolution

American Revolution: After years of grumbling that the British Parliament governed without representation, thirteen colonies rejected the authority of Great Britain and declared independence on July 4^th, 1776.

Argentine Revolution: Two years after Napoleon dethroned King Ferdinand VII of Spain, the criollas (Argentine-born colonists) who could no longer depend upon the king for protection, ousted the Viceroy and established a local government on May 25^th, 1810.

The Perón Revolution: General Juan Perón (with the help of his wife Eva) was elected by the masses and won the presidency of Argentina in 1946. The elites were not amused as he nationalized large industry. Nor were they fond of his wife Evita. But, in a democracy, a populist like Perón can win a majority of the votes, regardless of the interests of the ruling elites.

First Lady Eva Peron

Two Perspectives of Evita - Despised and Loved!

 

The Cuban Revolution: Fidel Castro, with the help of the Argentinean Che Guevara, deposed a dictator and marched into Havana on January 2^nd, 1959 to lead a Marxist revolution. Guevara, the young man who grew up in Alta Gracia, Argentina, is regarded as a hero by leftists for his opposition to imperialism and neo-colonialism.

Street art commemorating Che Guevara is still popular.

In 1863, American President Abraham Lincoln, spoke of “government of the people, by the people, for the people” in the Gettysburg address. I interpret “of the people” to mean that people have a voice, that they can vote. “By the people” I take to mean that someone can be elected as a leader without being part of an aristocracy or military junta. “For the people” means for the benefit of the people. Lincoln was right – these are excellent criteria for evaluating governments.

So how do various governments rate?

The Perónistas

Of the people: ½ point. Perón was elected by popular vote, but questions remain.

By the people: ¼ point. Perón, a former general, ruled by decree rather than consent.

For the people: 1 point. Under El Presidente, and with the help of his wife Eva, workers secured the right to unionize and women were granted the right to vote. The Peróns were adored by the masses, especially the women and children who benefited from the Eva Perón foundation.

Total: 1 ¾ points.

I love this quote from Evita.

“… I’ve erected this institution for social welfare’s sake – depriving it of any trace of charity – in the hopes that it’d become a banner of social justice. The poor are not cared for out of mercy or commiseration, but because they are also Argentine citizens who find themselves in despair, but who are as much worthy of attention as the rest of the citizenry.” Eva Peron. July 6, 1949

Evita's wardrobe was no reflection of her humble beginnings.

[Evita died prematurely from cancer. President Perón later became one of the most despised politicians in Argentina.]
   

The Cubanistas

Of the people: ½ point. Prior to Fidel Castro and Che Guevara, Cubans did not have a right to vote under the Batista dictatorship. But today the public still has sub-optimal influence over the political process.

By the people: ½ point. Cuba has a nationally elected legislature. But the government is top heavy with three executive leadership positions, including president, being held by one man (now Raul Castro.)

For the people: ½ point. Good intentions though diminished by less than desirable results.

Total: 1 ½ points.

Che and Fidel

[Check out “The Motorcycle Diaries” to learn more about Che’s pre-revolutionary days.]

 

Los Americanistas de Los Estados Unidos

Of the people: ¾ points. Election to political office is by popular vote, but voter turnout is low.

By the people: ¾ points. Anyone can run for office, but it’s an expensive proposition.

For the people: ½ points. It depends on who counts as “the people.”

Total: 2 points.

The Supreme Court has ruled that corporations are essentially persons, that they have the right to free speech, and may contribute money to political campaigns like any other citizen. If the United States government is “for the people” – which “people” are they for?

In the US, cities pay police to break-up “Occupy” encampments on public property rather than simply providing portable toilets and encouraging the right to assemble and promoting free speech. Ironically, we cheered the “Arab Spring” and supported the massive numbers of protestors who took to the streets in North Africa and the Middle East. Maybe the US wouldn’t have been supportive of the drive for democracy if Egyptians had brought tents to Tahrir Square.

Where is our Che? Where is our revolutionary leader who is against corporate imperialism? Where is our Evita? Who will look out for the interests of the masses who, given the opportunity, have so much to contribute to this country?

History shows that governance without representation can lead to revolution. The big question is – who do our elected representatives represent? For the sake of the United States, I hope it is the human persons. Viva la revolución!

Men Here Love Their Hair

The men of Argentina love their hair. In Buenos Aires and in Cordoba, you’ll find men sporting buns, bushy-do’s and dreadlocks. Personally I find so much hair to be a bit disturbing. But when I see a trend that needs to be documented, I do what I’ve got to do.

In Córdoba in particular, I couldn’t walk more than a block without seeing a guy with his hair up in a bun. Buns were fewer and further apart in Buenos Aires, though still quite popular.

 

 

 

 

 

Bushy Do’s came in second place.

 

 

Dreadlocks are also on display in all lengths and many colors.

 

 

 

 

And yes, at a public restroom men spend a fair amount of time looking into the mirror, and… wait for it… fixing their hair.  Welcome to Argentina where the battle of the sexes is over who has the prettier hair.

Excursion to Alta Gracia

It’s time for an excursion – a day trip to the ranch at Alta Gracia. Okay, it’s called an estancia, and the history is confusing to me. The way I understand it is that the estancia was a very profitable endeavor run by Jesuits starting in 1643 to finance one of Argentina’s first universities. Those damn Jesuit ranchers were so successful at building furniture, metal-work and raising mules (much more profitable than horses) that the Spanish crown expelled them. I guess the king didn’t like the competition.

I try to imagine what it was like to walk through the remote country side in the late 17^th century and discover a church in the middle of nowhere, hundreds of miles away from the port in Buenos Aires.  “How the hell did that get here?”

The owners of the estancia lived a life of luxury with imported French furniture and tapestries depicting babies making out with each other.

 Like I said, life on the ranch is a bit confusing to a city boy like me.

 Next stop on the half-day excursion - Che’s adolescent home.

Yes, the “Che” as in Che Guevara, the legendary Cuban revolutionary. Well, actually his name was Ernesto. “Che” is something that Argentines call each other, and rumor has it that they do so throughout Argentina, but I only heard it in Cordoba. The best way to translate “che”? Well, it would be like calling someone “dude” in California. “Che - como te pasa?” which of course sounds something like “Dude – what’s up?” But in Spanish, with an Italian accent of course.