Córdoba

Córdoba is the second largest city in Argentina with a population of 1.3 million people and has the best-preserved colonial architecture in Argentina. Being from California with a mission here and a mission there, I was impressed by the number of colonial churches all within walking distance of my hotel.

Córdoba’s Iglesia Catedral was begun in 1577 and took two centuries to complete. My brain spins thinking that a church in Argentina was being finished after two hundred years - and at about the same time the United States declared its independence. I can grasp that in Europe, but South America?

At the entry to the Iglesia Catedral is a tribute to General Jose Maria Paz. Yes, she has a sword and boobs. Was General Jose Maria Paz a Joan-of-Arc-type hero? A female general who died in 1854? It turns out the general was a guy, and the statue was just a tribute. Damn. Jose “Maria” sent my imagination down a much more interesting path.

The streets of Córdoba are inhabited by a variety of colonial masterpieces.

Iglesia deCompania de Jesus is a fascinating church. Designed by a former ship builder and completed in 1671, the vault is made of a cedar-like wood and resembles an inverted ship’s hull.

 During a guided tour I was surprised to learn that many of the people who helped build the church were slaves. Though most references to slavery in Argentina have been painted over, a few artifacts remain.

Córdoba, like Buenos Aires, is reminiscent of a European city with its grand buildings, statues and tree lined canals.

Local color can also be found hidden amongst less grand brick and cement building.

Upon returning to my room, I discovered that not only was the Hotel Córdoba Savannah not representative of colonial architecture, it was apparently under major renovation. I could only wonder – on Monday morning will I wake to barking dogs or jackhammers?